Basic Painting Steps
Step 1: Do Some Repairs The first thing you need to do is to repair and replace any damaged surfaces, whether stucco, wood, masonry or metal. Then, wash off all surfaces. Use a high-pressure water sprayer, which is usually available for rent, to reduce labor. After that, make sure that the surfaces dry thoroughly. You can use sandpaper or a paint scraper to remove any loose, cracked, chipping or blistered paint. You can apply this even down to the raw surfaces if necessary. Also, use a small drop of cloth as you go to catch loose bits of paint and debris. Patch all nail or screw holes, gouges and cracks. You can caulk such spots as seams and corners, above door and window trim, as well as where trim meets siding. If you find some serious problems in woodwork, use epoxy filler to repair those surfaces. Then, cover dark stains with a stain blocking primer. The same goes for mildewed areas. Step 2: Prime Time Unless the existing finish is flat, you will need to apply a prime coat to make a new paint adhere. Experts often suggest that on the flat-painted walls with minor repairs, you may simply choose to spot prime. However, for walls with larger areas of patching plaster, it is best to employ a sealer or primer. Note that priming doesn’t require as much care as painting, but it is done the same way. Step 3: Ceiling Brushwork Before painting, consider first the ceiling. What you can do with it is to cover the perimeter and unpainted areas around the fixtures. Step 4: Consider Rolling So you’ll want to start with the ceiling. Okay! In sections about six feet square, use a series of overlapping “W” strokes from right to left, then back from left to right. However, if you are using any other finish than flat, go over the entire ceiling once again with one directional, overlapping and non diagonal strokes to blend the paint. Repeat the same steps with the walls, now covering to within 1 ½ inches of all edges. Note that the final non-diagonal strokes here should be from top to bottom. Step 5: Wall Brushwork It is important to note that unless you are very skillful or you’ve got an edging painting tool, you should mask the perimeter of the ceiling with painting tape, and then paint the upper perimeter of the walls, including the spots that cannot be covered with the roller. Step 6: Back to Seconds? If you find that the ceiling and walls need a second coat, wait for the first coat to dry. To simply put it, you can do the second coating after the first coat dries. It is perhaps necessary to check the label for the manufacturer’s coating guidelines. Step 7: Windows, Doors, Trims, and Baseboards Protect the newly painted wall surfaces with the use of a painting tape or paint edger while you paint the woodwork. As commonly suggested, the doors can be wedged open with a rolled-up newspaper. However, be sure to place a drop of cloth underneath them. A roller also saves time on a flat door, and a door with panels needs a brush. In terms of double-hung windows, all you need to do is to pull the top sash down and paint the bottom part of its first. Then, put it back up and paint the top part of it, followed by the bottom sash, then the jabs and frame. Just a warning: If you are using anything other than water-based latex, never put paint-soaked or cleaner-soaked tools or rags in an enclosed area of any kind, even a trash can with a lid. Note that this is considered as a recipe for spontaneous combustion. |
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